Waxing your board is one of those things every surfer does but not everyone does well. Done right, a good wax job gives you reliable grip from the first paddle to the last wave. Done badly, you’re slipping around on a board that looks waxy but doesn’t actually hold.
This is the straightforward version — no jargon, no filler.
What you need
- A clean surfboard
- A basecoat wax bar
- A temperature-specific topcoat wax bar
- A wax comb
If your board already has old wax on it, you’ll need to remove that first. Skip to the section on removing old wax below.
Step 1: Choose the right wax for your water temperature
Surf wax is temperature-specific. Each formula is designed to perform within a certain water temperature range — outside that range it won’t build bumps properly or hold grip through a session. Using the wrong temperature wax is one of the most common reasons a freshly waxed board feels slippery.
Check the water temperature at your local beach and match it to your wax:
- Tropical — 24°C and above
- Warm — 18–24°C
- Cool — 14–21°C
- Cold — 16°C and below
Most surf apps and weather websites will show the current sea temperature. In New Zealand, a cool water wax covers most of the year for most of the country.
Step 2: Apply a basecoat
Basecoat is a harder wax that goes directly onto a clean board. It creates the foundation of bumps that your topcoat bonds to. Without it, your topcoat won’t last as long and won’t build as well.
Start by applying the basecoat in firm diagonal strokes — work across the full deck diagonally in one direction, then repeat diagonally in the opposite direction to create a crosshatch base. Once you’ve covered the whole area, switch to circular strokes on top to build up the bump texture.
Cover the full area your feet and body make contact with. You should see small bumps starting to form. If the wax isn’t sticking, make sure the board is clean and free of any sunscreen, oil, or residue — those will prevent the wax from bonding. A wipe down with a clean dry cloth before you start can make a big difference.
Step 3: Apply your temperature topcoat
Once you’ve got a solid basecoat layer, switch to your temperature-specific topcoat. Use lighter pressure this time — you’re building on top of the foundation, not starting from scratch.
Apply in diagonal strokes in both directions across the board, then finish with circular strokes. The crosshatch pattern builds a consistent texture across the whole surface.
You’re looking for visible bumps across the deck. If it looks flat and shiny, you need more wax. If it looks textured and slightly rough to the touch, you’re done.
Step 4: Keep your wax clean between sessions
Loose wax bars pick up sand, hair, and debris from your bag. Sandy wax goes onto your board as sandy wax — which feels rough underfoot and wears out faster. Keeping your bar in a Wax Stash between sessions keeps it clean and means you’re always applying fresh wax, not wax that’s been rolling around in the bottom of a board bag for three weeks.
How to remove old wax
Old wax loses grip over time and collects dirt. Every few months — or whenever your board feels like it’s lost its traction — strip it back and start fresh.
- Leave the board in the sun for 10–15 minutes to soften the wax enough to scrape. Don’t leave it too long or the wax will melt and become harder to remove cleanly.
- Use the straight edge of a wax comb to scrape the bulk of the wax off. Work in long strokes across the deck.
- Use the toothed edge to clean up any remaining wax from the rails and around the fins.
- Wipe down with a clean cloth. If there’s residue left, a small amount of coconut oil or a dedicated wax remover will clean it up.
- Apply your fresh basecoat and topcoat as above.
How often should you re-wax?
There’s no fixed rule. It depends on how often you surf, what conditions you’re in, and how your board feels underfoot. If you find yourself slipping on a board that has visible wax on it, the wax has lost its texture and needs refreshing. Use the toothed edge of a wax comb to rough it up before your next session — that’s often enough to restore grip without a full re-wax.
If the wax is dirty, discoloured, or has gone hard and flat, strip it and start fresh.
Don’t throw away your leftover scraps
As you surf, small clean pieces of wax will break off from the bar and collect in the bottom of your Wax Stash or board bag. These are worth keeping. Drop them into a spare Wax Stash and once you’ve built up enough, you can melt them back into a solid, usable bar — same grip, no waste.
This is different from the wax you scrape off during a full strip. That old wax has picked up dirt, sand, and grime from the board surface and isn’t worth recycling. Discard it and start with a fresh bar.
For the full process, read our wax recycling guide. And for more on keeping your setup clean, read how to store surf wax properly.